Cyclist´s Remarks 7/6/8

"Tell me you´re not going over the Tourmalet with all that". It´s music to our ears. Spoken to us by a fellow cyclist at the top of the Col d'Aspin. He had overtaken us on the way up on his lightweight racer but his elation at having reached the top and the prospect of attempting the Tourmalet, knowing we were following the same route, rather dimmed his sense of achievement while inflating ours by a similar amount.

Having been unsuccessful in keeping dry in the increasingly wet conditions I enquired of a German tourer if his 'breathable' over-trousers kept out the rain. "Yes" he said proudly, before adding "but I'm swimming inside". Nice!

On our last full day´s ride before Bilbao we headed for Gernika (Guernica) across the rolling Basque Country. After 12 hours, having ridden 135km over a succession of 2000ft passes we became lost in the hills on a narrow concrete track. Luckily a mountain biker appeared and said we were going in the right direction but queried why we came by such an arduous road. He assured us that the route to Gernika was straightforward but just before we depart says "...but the mountain is very easy". What bloody mountain we wonder to each other. We have 15km to go, are at the top of a hill 400m and have envisaged an easy freewheel down into town. Luckily for our tired bodies we managed to avoid "the mountain" but it has become a much repeated phrase.

Bagneres de Luchon 2/6/8

We are sat on a bench looking back down the narrow cave which curves away from us for over 150m. There is subtle lighting running alongside the walkway. The bare rock walls glisten with water and drips constantly fall from the low roof. We are both soaking wet. Sitting still is bearable for short periods but while walking the intensity of the heat and humidity becomes oppressive. I look for the heaters but am aware this is a natural phenomena, with the spa water permeating the rock and heating the cave to around 40C with 95% humidity. We are spending the afternoon at the Baths of the elegant spa town Bagneres de Luchon, 15 minutes in the cave is followed by 20 mins floating in the circular relaxation pool and then a spell on the recliners wrapped in white toga towels before repeating the process. After around 1200kms in 12 days its probably time we had a rest although all this relaxing is dangerous - I wake up the next morning feeling physically and mentally drained...

The Resistance and Vercors

Not having watched 'Allo 'Allo, my knowledge of the Resistance is limited but we were educated and given food for thought while traveling through The Vercors. This region, at the southwest tip of the Alps, was where the French Resistance first became organised, and is dotted with memorials to their courage. Cycling behind a screen of trees, the dramatic scenery only occasionally presents itself, but clearings reveal densely wooded slopes dropping to valleys hundreds of feet below. A landscape where many Resistance camps existed and their activity culminated in an attack on the Germans to coincide with the D-Day landings in July 1944. Promises of reinforcements from the Allies never materialised and despite their bravery many died due to the Germans superior equipment and air attacks. 15,000 German troops which would have otherwise been used on the Normandy front were deployed but the destroyed villages are evidence of the brutal retribution in the aftermath of the attack.
The most difficult decisions I have recently faced have been involved in the planning of this tour. Yet for those living under Nazi occupation, which occurred not so long before I was born, the decisions people faced were of a life and death nature. To collaborate or resist to face exile or extermination or to stand by while sections of society are eliminated?

Yellow Line Tour - Typical Day

6am
Alarm goes of and I emerge from the tent to prepare breakfast while Wendy packs away the sleeping bags and tent.

7am
On a good day we are cycling by this time and the sun is on our backs. With luck we have a pass to climb to get the adrenaline pumping.

Mid-morning
Stop to pick up food for lunch and probably a snack to keep us going.

12.30ish
With luck we find a stupendous view away from the road where we can eat too much bread and cheese before dozing in the warm sun. Or we seek shelter from the rain and get going quickly to avoid getting cold.

4-6
Hopefully, after completing 80-120km, we find a glorious isolated spot to camp, but lately, around Aosta this is difficult so may have to settle for a campsite.

Evening
Write blogs/diaries, prepare and eat our meal then have a game of cards before retiring to the tent at around 10, when Wendy sleeps and I read for a bit.

Events in the Shadow of Mt. Blanc 18/5

Approaching Aosta and heading towards Mt. Blanc, we decided to have a Saturday night hotel as the rain was increasing and we have become a little sodden lately. Our room had a full size mannequin on the balcony, a charming girl dressed as a chef. My initial attempt to manipulate her resulted in a dislocated arm (hers). After showering I tried to hang some washing on her hand which fell off, bounced on the balcony and dropped into the alleyway outside the hotel entrance. Obviously not being dressed I sent Wendy out to retrieve it. A dangerous woman , I kept clear of her (the mannequin) after that.
Next day cycled the 35km to Courmayer from where we have to take the bus through the Mt. Blanc tunnel as no passes are open. Unfortunately it doesn't run on a Sunday so, having missed my first F.A. cup final since 1968, I retired to a bar to watch the climax of the Italian season. When Inter score to seal the title the guy sat next to me jumps up, hugs his mate then, in a state of high excitement, slaps his hand against a door, shattering a clip frame and sending glass flying everywhere. Drama indeed.
Later, cooking our meal on the balcony, I become aware of undue interest from the hotel owner standing outside below. There's plenty of sizzling and spicy mushroom aroma so I turn the stove off and wave nonchalantly before withdrawing into our room. Later, after relocating the cooker around the corner, she emerges again and stands chatting in a position to see both halves of our balcony. Aware that the rice is about to boil over I have to pretend to hang washing out before bending down to switch the cooker off. Eventually she looses interest but for discretion we decide to eat indoors.
And all the while the slab of Mont Blanc rears over us and provides a backdrop to our activities. Well it would if it wasn't wreathed in cloud...

1 Day - 3 Breaks 17/5

Proceeding happily on smooth tarmac the back of my bike started swinging about alarmingly. I assumed it was my second puncture in 4500 km but the tyre was fine and the wheel was not buckled. Eventually discovered the frame had snapped where the chain stay meets the rear drop-out. Although we are in sight of shops it was Saturday morning and everything closes at midday until Monday.

The first break occurred during breakfast. Wendy crunched into her muesli and discovered what she at first thought was a stone but was half of one of her front teeth. Soon after I break the plastic pump on the petrol stove. Its not critical as it will still work but makes life a little tedious.

Later, after buying superglue I carry out emergency roadside dental repairs. With Wendy lying flat on her back I am kneeling over her superglue in one hand, tooth in the other when a van pulls up to ask if everything is ok!

We wheeled the bike to 4 auto repair shops before we found a willing mechanic who spent the best part of an hour with his assistant filing, welding and grinding to fix the frame. Initially I thought it would be a time consuming problem but we were away again in less than 2 hours. And Wendy's tooth is still in place...

Balkan Reflections 13/5

From the high heeled Saturday night of Bitola, Macedonia, through intriguing Albania, to the awesome beauty of Slovenia, the Balkans has been a memorable journey. But what shall remain imprinted most firmly on my brain is the recent suffering of Croatia and especially Bosnia as well as the warmth and helpfulness of the people.

Its remarkable that 10 years ago, although the conflict had officially finished, Bosnia was a lawless land of random and organised violence. Yet now, although the scars of war are all too visible we felt as safe free camping there as anywhere. Although the warnings about land mine caused some concern...

With Macedonia, Albania and Bosnia having majority Muslim populations it is surprising that, apart from the rocket shaped minarets attached to mosques, the call to prayer, headscarves, beards and prayer mats are absent, while alcohol is drunk with vigour and betting is a national pastime.

Slovenia, with its high standard of living, pristine mountains and quaint alpine villages was like moving into a comfort zone before we tackled those high alps ahead.

Italian Alps 10/5

Now we are back in the big hills and once again doing classic mountain passes. Stopped in Cortina yesterday which seems inhabited by ultra thin over made up 50-60 year old women. From there started up the Passo di Giau until we stopped to camp in the woods among patches of snow. Up early to continue our climb and we reached the top at 2232m before 9. These roads are tough, not the easy gradients of the Pyrenees with slopes which go up to 15% forcing me down through the gears. But what a treat we received on the way up. A blue and white pristine world with awesome peaks all around. The sort of snow filled, high altitude, isolated mountain world which is only usually experienced skiing before the crowds arrive. And the 29 hairpins on the downhill were a thrill.
In the afternoon we tackled the Passo di Fedaia, a mere 2057m but adjacent to the Marmolada ski area. This was probably our hardest road climb yet, coming as our second of the day, but we did pass a group of mountain bikers who were walking up which gave us some satisfaction...

5 Simple Things We Should Have Brought 7/5

OK we can't bring everything with us but there are a few things which would have been helpful, taken up very little space and weighed virtually nothing.

1) Needle and Cotton. We did bring a needle but it broke early on so a few of these would have been a good idea. Eventually found a shop selling them but ended up with 30...

2) Aerial Lead. A top tip is using a 1 metre length of wire and crocodile clip to extend the radio aerial. This increases the chances of getting the world service by about 50% but I failed to bring one.

3) Latex Gloves. Great for servicing the bikes and the petrol stove so that you stay away from the indelible blackness. I did try some plastic gloves from a petrol station but they quickly disintegrate.

4) Small Jubilee Clips. Fantastic for running repairs. Wendy has now got a broken front and rear rack and we could have done a permanent job instead of a tape and cable tie lash-up.

5) Bank Card Pin Code. What sort of idiot leaves home without remembering what his pin code is..?

I do realise that all of the above (except 5) could be bought given the time and inclination. But cycling intervenes and we will not get to Bilbao by June 11th if we start trawling around shops.

Winking Man 6/5

The blog has been necessarily a bit dark lately so I include this photo of a wooden statue outside a house in the north of Slovenia to lighten things. We have seen many similar carvings but usually are of giants pulling up trees.
This one is a little different in that he appears to be winking, or he could just have something in his eye...