3 GEARS ON MY BIKE

Eschewing the 24 gears fitted to my bike, I am trying to use only three of them. I stick the chain on the 5th gear of the rear cassette and just use the 3 chain rings to alter the ratios. Madness? Possibly but there is also a sound reason. Buying a saddle just before a tour is not a good idea! By sticking to limited ratios it forces me to stand more than normal and so relieves the pressure on my behind. There are exceptions, like when going up a long steep climb (I can't stand up forever) but for the moment I am getting pleasure from this self imposed limitation. I have previous experience of this. In the Himalayas my transmission became so worn that in order to stop the chain jumping I had to fix it around the smallest chaining and 1 rear cog giving me just 3rd gear. Not too bad for climbing but any level ground had my legs whirring away... Luckily for me this area has limited flat roads. As an act of kinship which I shall never forget, our travelling companion, Paul also kept in 3rd gear. His bike however had a jammed freewheel so he descended with his legs lifted and pedals whirring furiously...

THE GORGE AT LUMIER

Described locally as the best fluvial gorge in Navarre. Something of an understatement I would think. Imagine Cheddar, but deeper, with no road and certainly no tacky shops at the bottom. We emerged after a climb unexpectedly at the head of the gorge and were astonished at the chasm which dropped away from us. With cliff sides of around 1000ft and a turbulent river running along the bottom it was a stunning site. Also a haven of wildlife with many birds of prey to be seen hunting hundreds of feet below us.

WINDS AND TURBINES

Moving through the relatively flat lands south of Pamplona we were staggered by the amount of wind turbines seemingly strung out along every ridge. This is apparently due to air movement caused by this area being between the relatively wet coastal region and the drier mountains. It was certainly blowing when we passed through, and directly into our faces, giving us a tough couple of days cycling. How we wished all those turbines would swing round and blow the wind in the opposite direction.

5 BEST NEW BITS OF GEAR FOR THIS TRIP

1) Mapcase
Wendy has adapted an Ortlieb walkers´ mapcase to replace the small leaky one integral to the bar bag. Its large, frost proof and fits over her bar bag but is easily released for access to it.

2) Headtorch
I have held out a long time before getting one of these. Mainly due to the high wally factor and being blinded by other people. But now I wouldn't be without it especially as I was previously in serious danger of swallowing my torch.

3) Gaiters
Not yet tested fully due to the lack of intensive rain but they have worked well in persistent drizzle. Another Wendy idea, we have (non bulky) junior gaiters which fit on our boots/shoes and under our over trousers not only adding warmth to the ankles but stopping our feet from getting wet.

4) Second Thermarest
Wendy, being a hardcore camper, has a foam mat while I have the luxury of a thermarest. We have brought a second short thermarest which we place across our mats under our hips. This gives a big increase in comfort in the vital area.

5) Keyboard and Screen
I thought of the 5 items in this list as I was cycling then while typing I could remember only 4. The fifth of course is what I'm now using. Wendy was keen to digitise her diaries so wanted a method of direct typing. After much research she got a Quickpad Pro. I was a bit sceptical but now I have caught the blogging bug I really appreciate the time it saves in soulless internet cafes. And I'm able to write this in the open air and with a view of snow-capped mountains.

THE BEAUTY OF CAMPING WILD

Due to a lack of forward planning and increasing tiredness we recently had the experience of staying on a campsite. It was close to a town, tidy and with a most helpful manager. But it got me thinking...

Maybe it´s the campsite lighting which cuts out the stars and shines into the tent giving it the ambience of a police cell, maybe it´s the views of the toilet block, caravans and houses rather than the wide open spaces, maybe it´s the crescendo of barking in the middle of the night, maybe it´s because we were locked in at 10, maybe it´s the dog walkers who visited the camping area last thing at night, maybe it´s guilt at having all that hot water available and not using it. Maybe it’s something else but, given the choice, I'd much rather be camping wild.

And for the first time in Spain, after 2 weeks, it rained...

THE TYRANNY OF MILEPOSTS

The 2 things most often viewed from the roads of Spain are 'Coto Privado de Caza' (Private Hunting) signs which are seemingly nailed to every tree and fence post (more later) and the milepost. No road seems to be without them and the attention to their accuracy seems obsessive. We travelled along a mountain road where recent roadworks had straightened out some of the bends. As a result the road was shortened by a few metres and so to retain accuracy the old stone posts had been usurped by aluminium Km signs placed as much as 5 metres away. In an act of civic vandalism the old posts had been painted over and their numerical indentations filled with cement. For a cyclist life is so much more enjoyable when you forget about distance and just enjoy the environment. In India I once realised with horror that the small posts between the mile stones were 1/10th mile marks. This was on a road where the posts were counting down to Madras which was still many hundreds of miles away. Having each of those miles divided up into 1/10th of a mile sections made our progress seem imperceptibly slow.

5 REASONS TO CYCLE TOUR THE PYRENEES IN FEBRUARY

1) It´s very quiet. Rural Spain seems to be deserted and we have seen only 1 other cycle tourer, and 1 other tent.

2) When the sun shines, and it has done frequently for us, it’s a real bonus and surprisingly warm. We have dipped in mountain streams (although the water is a little cool).

3) No mossies or flies (and the bears are hibernating).

4) With the longer nights it’s a great chance to improve your astronomy. We have learnt so much on this trip lying out under the stars with a chart.

5) The temperature for the long climbs is ideal, although you need to wrap up when descending.

RICKETY BRIDGE INCIDENT

Take care on rickety bridges. Or at least watch your step. Near Sabinanigo we found this old wire and wood bridge which sagged worryingly under our weight and had many holes in its planks through which you could see the river around 60ft below. While Wendy was taking photos I put my foot through a hole and fell sideways landing on the cable running along the side of the bridge. I ended up overhanging the edge with my bike on top of me. While falling I was unconcerned as I knew the cable was there but Wendy's face was a picture of alarm. Did you get the photo, I asked, but she was not amused...

MECHANICAL FAILURE (1)

Going through the routine procedure of oiling Wendy's gear cables I noticed the outer cables are disintegrating. The wire strands which form the tubing are emerging from the end of the plastic sheathing to form ragged ends. This is causing the inner cable to stick so making changing into higher gears tedious. At first I thought we would have to head off to the nearest bike shop but she is making light of it and so it will be sorted in Barcelona.

NATURAL DAM?

The paradox of this photo may be due to my poor Spanish translation, but I don't think so.

SALINAS DE ANAÑAS

South of Santander we cycled through this village famous for its salt works. Across a large, wide, dry riverbed and up the sides of the valley were clustered together platforms which originally contained salty water which evaporated in the sun. This left the salt which was then shovelled down through a hole. The platforms were supported by wooden posts and linked together by channels, also made of wood which transported the salty spring water. It was an awesome sight due to the area the workings covered and their rustic nature. If it had been covered in salt workers it would have been reminiscent of a Salgado photograph.

HAPPY PONY

Saw this pony (presumably employed by the billboard company) with a big job to be done.

BASQUE FUENTE

The town and village fuentes (springs) are important stopping points for us. This one had an internal area which created these reflections.

STORK COUNTRY

As we headed east below the Picos de Europa we passed through a stretch of around 50km inhabited by an amazing number of storks. Their large untidy nests seem to inhabit the top of any tower, church, chimney or other suitable high point. These were a lovely sight and I miss their ungainly appearance and strange beak clicking. The best cluster we saw can be seen in the photo.

VALENTINES DAY (NO MASSACRE)

A general election occurs on March 8th and political activity is hotting up. In the afternoon we viewed a procession of cars blaring horns and flying the flags of the Independentzia party from our balcony and later a demonstration involving several hundred people passed by. Later we went out and witnessed an alarming scene in the square outside our hotel. Police with batons, shields and helmets were standing across the end of a narrow street with their backs to us. Three men were spread eagled up against a wall being searched and 2 of the police were holding what I think were CS gas launchers. Our restaurant is up that street, I told Wendy, she replied "Its ok, they are letting people through, let’s follow behind those people with a pushchair". We took the long way round, found the resteraunt was shut, saw no rioting but had a romantic evening anyway.

VITORIA-GASTEIZ

The administrative capital of the Basque region, home of Alaves F.C. and the flat capital of Europe. Blocks of them 6 to 10 stories high lined our 5 km ride into the centre and many more are visible from our hotel balcony across the other side of town. I have yet to see a house. Coupled with huge amounts of construction and chaos caused by ongoing tram lines removal this did not make a favourable first impression of this historic city. Weary bodies (442 km in our first week of riding) decided a rest day was due so we got a tidy ensuite room with balcony and breakfast, near the old centre, for 45 euros which we thought was good value until we discovered the lack of hot water. After pointing this out we are now have a double room plus large lounge area with kitchen, hall with chez longue and a rooftop balcony where you could have a decent game of 5 a side football. But the water is still only warm...

UNEXPLAINED SIGHTING

Helped by the wonderfully clear nights and using charts Wendy has brought we are slowly improving our astronomy. Before the cold drives us into our sleeping bags we are starting to identify more stars and constellations. We have also become aware of the constant stream of aircraft heading NE on a similar path both day and night. The number of them seems extraordinary and leads us to question the necessity of so many flights. On Tuesday (12/2/8) at around 8.20 Wendy spotted a bright orange light coming towards us from the NW which, although lower than the others, we presumed to be another plane. Though moving in a straight line at a steady speed at a constant altitude it did not have the blinking lights of a plane and appeared to be glowing. After watching it for around 20 seconds it reached the centre of the sky, briefly turned red and then disappeared. We have no explanation for what it might have been so would be interested in any theories...

PUERTO DE LAS ESTACES (1166m)

Not the highest but easily the most enjoyable climb we have done. The day didn't start well, after a week in Spain it was the first morning with no sun and the day had a raw grey feel about it. However, mid-morning the sun started to break through and soon after we started climbing the 14km, 800m climb of the Puerto de las Estaces. The first 3km were very tough going, a stiff headwind was pushing us back and the road was straight and dull. Progress was so tough that after 3km we stopped for lunch and decided to carry on but camp when we found a suitable spot. Immediately the climb became more interesting with the road cut into a rock face and a valley of green fields, rock walls and numerous stone barns below us. The wind was still a big problem though, and we cycled on the wrong side of the road to try and get shelter close to the valley wall and also to avoid a gust blowing us off down the steep drop to our right. At the halfway stage we had a decision to make. We found a camping spot but it was still early and the site was shaded. Luckily we decided to carry on and were rewarded with one of the best climbs of our lives. The wind dropped a bit and the sun was glorious. We turned a bend to find the col shaped like a bottom with waterfalls running down the crack and the road hairpinning back and forth across both cheeks. Looking up to see stretches of road far above us it was hard to believe they were part of our route. The last 7kms we completed, almost without stopping on our overloaded bikes. We alternated between tough going when approaching the crack and relief when we headed out across the cheeks and had the wind on our backs. So enjoyable had the experience been there was a tinge of regret when we reached the top - I would have loved to have carried on for a few more km.

SCREWFIX ANSWER (See first entry below)

In order to cease the daily hassle of the Spanish Postal Van dropping off more postcards with incorrect answers I have decided to now reveal the answer. The most popular reason given for the employees having to roll a dice at the end of their shift was that if they rolled a six they would have to make the tea. Very British! Actually, on rolling a 6 the employee is immediately searched by a colleague of the same sex. I think I might shop elsewhere in future...

Cool Nights

Woke to find white crystals covering everything and the walls of the tent sagging alarmingly due to the weight of ice. Excited to find our thermometer showing -12C though we had both stayed warm in our down sleeping bags. That evening, 1 hour after sunset it was showing -5C although it seemed much warmer which made the mornings -12C reading seem a bit dubious. However, Wendy then removed the damp tent from its pannier which immediately became crinkly due to it freezing. Subsequent comparisons with public temperature displays have confirmed the accuracy of our thermometer.

Art, bike lanes and wildlife

Arriving in Spain in the sunshine, a little bit behind schedule due to the ferocity of the wind we admired the port of Bilbao from high up in the boat, or so we thought. It was not until we looked at a map that we discovered that our destination for that day and home of The Guggenheim museum and of course Athletic (not to be confused with Atletico) was 15km away. However the tourist office pointed us towards a waterside cycle path which fairly shortly ran into an industrial cul de sac. Not unlike our experience between Fareham and Portsmouth where the signposted route ejected us into a dual carriageway where we were abused by a local motorist.

Escaping from the motorists´ delight of the outer edges of Bilbao we headed towards the futuristic silver multi-domed arresting sight of the Bilbao Guggenheim. So taken with this were we that we immediately took a tour, around the outside, by bike. And that´s as close as we got to the artistic delights of its interior. Our excuses are that we were still recovering from the spin cycle of the boat and our train left for Asturias at midday the following day.

After 6 1/2 hours on the train, and around 60 stops we arrived at Infiesto just west of the Picos. On the journey up to Mark´s a massive wild boar ambled across the road and I am still staggered by the size of the beast. A lucky sighting - Mark has now only seen 3 in 2 years. On the crossing we were also fortunate to see dolphins leaping through the waves.

A stormy crossing

Informed that the wind was blowing force 8 and 9 with the occasional storm 10 we decided to distract ourselves by watching ´Elizabeth´. The cinema is high up at the bow of ´The Pride of Bibao´ and so is a site of maximum movement. Going straight into the wind, and with our speed reduced from 17 to 10 knots the pitching of the boat seemed fairly controlled most of the time. Occasionally a larger wave would lift the bow higher and the boat would rise further before falling into the trough behind the wave, while my virtual stomach continued to rise. The bow then dropped until it slammed back down into the water with a resounding metallic thump which caused the whole boat to shudder and the projector and screen to violently shake. The boat would then repeat this cycle of slam dunks several times before resuming its more controlled progress. It added greatly to the otherwise poor computer generated film effects of the storm lashed Armada being blown about in the Irish Sea.

Strange goings on (In Bedminster)

Rushing around, 2 days before we left, I arrived in Screwfix 5 mins before it closed. 5 members of staff were lined up in the empty shop, none too pleased to see me arrive. However I completed my purchase in 3 mins but were surprised to see the staff all taking turns to roll a single dice and record the number they threw in the shop´s daily log. It didn´t happen while I was there but if a 6 is thrown something immediately happens to that member of staff. This dice throwing occurs to all staff at the end of every shift. What could this be (answers on a postcard please...).

Wendy had rushed off elsewhere and was to return shortly so I wandered up the road and stood in the middle of a junction unsure of which direction she would come from, in the dark, looking 3 ways at once, carrying an axe that I had just bought...